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Shwedagon
Pagoda
Yangon
Myanmar
Buddhist
Temple.
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This Buddhist shrine
has a long history over a
timeframe of around two thousand years and since times
immemorial every year is the Shwedagon Pagoda Festival. |
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There are always people asking
where the pagoda is, actually its quite simple, the pagoda
platform is on the highest hill in Yangon Myanmar or Burma
dominating the city panorama.
The pagoda is one of the most venerated pagoda in the
country, it’s not the tallest stupa, the tallest is the
Shwemawdaw Pagoda at Bago, but it is for sure the most
famous Buddha shrine in the whole Buddhist world and also
one of the major tourist attraction in Myanmar together with
Bagan and Mandalay.
There are some other famous pagodas such as the Shwezigon
Pagoda in Bagan, Sule Pagoda in Yangon downtown and another
very famous pagoda pilgrim destination is the Golden Rock
Pagoda at Kyaiktiyo in Mon State Myanmar about 200 km south
east of Yangon. Everyday Myanmar monks, nuns, novices and
other people visit the platform |
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to pray, meditate or simply stay
there for a while. In
recent years plenty of tourist join them, below is also some
history explained. Other famous Buddhist temples are located
at Mandalay, Mrauk U, Bago, Sagaing opposite Mandalay,
Monywa and plenty of other places in the country
Shwedagon, the “Mother of all Pagodas in Myanmar”,
towering to a height of 326 feet on Theingottara Hill is the landmark of Yangon, and dominates
the shape of the city. Ralph Fitch, the first Englishman to
arrive on Myanmar’s shores in 1558, wrote about this
Buddhist Temple: “it is called Dagon and is of a wonderful bigness
and all gilded from the foot to the top - it is the fairest
place, as I suppose, that is in the world.”
Rudyard Kipling called this most
famous Buddha shrine, ..”a golden mystery lofty on the
horizon, a beautiful wonder that blazed in the sun, in his
letters from the east published in 1889”.
In his “Gentleman in the
Parlor,” (1930),
Somerset Maugham, at his first sight of the
Pagoda was inspired to write that this
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superb, glistening, golden Buddhist Temple rising
superbly upwards, was like a sudden hope in the dark night
of the soul. This Buddhist temple is one of the greatest
cultural monuments ever erected by man.”
According to the chronicles, in 585 B.C., Tapussa and
Bhallika, two Myanmar merchant - brothers went for trade to
India. They were fortunate to meet Lord Buddha and received
eight hair relics. They returned to Myanmar and as a gesture
of welcoming the hair relics, several pagodas were built
along the coastal way. These stupas are still known as San-daw-kyo
Payamyar (Pagodas built as a token to welcome the hair
relics) King Okkalapa himself came to welcome the hair
relics. The Shwedagon Pagoda was built and the relics
enshrined there, more.
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Shwedagon Pagoda Entrance
West |
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In 1775, the stupa was rebuilt
by King Sinbyushin of Innwa, raising it to its present
height, with its present form and new hti. The British
forces occupied Theingottara Hill and fortified it in 1824.
In 1871, King Mindon placed a new hti, vane and diamond orb
on the top. Over time its this most sacred of all Myanmar
shrines and the largest of its kind in the world, is always
thronged with devotees, especially on holy days, when water
flowers and candles are offered at the images of the Lord
Buddha. All visitors are ever welcome and they should make
it a ‘must’ to explore and get to know more about it.
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Shwedagon Pagoda |
During construction,
relics of
three preceding Buddha’s (Kakusan, Konago, and Kassapa) were
excavated and re-enshrined, giving the temple the name
“Pagoda of Four Relics”.
The pagoda was successively
renovated and rebuilt by the King of |
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Hanthawaddy (Bago).
King Binnya U raised its height to 60 feet, and in 1451 A.D.
Queen Shinsawpu raised its height to 302 feet. It was also
gilded with gold from top to bottom.
can be approached by four covered stairway
or zaungdans,
one from each cardinal point, and four elevators lead up the
hill to the main platform. Stalls line the stairways selling
offerings such as flowers, candles and gold leaves; Buddha
images and statues made from wood, alabaster and ivory;
Buddha shrines for the house; brass-ware, teak and ivory
sculptures; gongs and cymbals. The main and the busiest
entrance of the Pagoda is the southern one. An escalator is
in service here and also at the northern entrance, which
makes it convenient to move up to the platform to
have a look for all this magnificent Buddhist temples,
more
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Under the burning sun the hot
marble slabs paving the platform are a problem for
bare-footed visitors which finally are everyone since shoes
are not allowed. Means visit the pagoda after 3pm when there
is shadow around cooling the hot marble slabs. This great Buddhist temple with
the heavy gilded main stupa occupies the center. The stupa
has an octagonal base with eight smaller stupas on each of
its eight sides, making a total of sixty-four.
Many
pavilions (tazaungs), resting places (zayats), assorted
images, statues, temples, shrines and smaller pagodas are
grouped around the massive central stupa. Manokthihas
(sphinxes) surrounded by a number of ‘chintes’ are found,
one at each corner of the platform. At each cardinal point
of the compass on the pagoda
platform are several
Buddhist temple and the
eight planetary posts |
Shwedagon pagoda is a
Buddhist Temple,
here are
Shwedagon Pagoda Pictures |
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representing the eight days of
the week (Wednesday is divided into a.m. and p.m. making it
two days), each with its own planet and animal symbol.
Beside each planetary post is a gilded Buddha figure made of
alabaster.
platform via the southern stairway, one can see the
Adoration Hall or Temple of Konagamana directly facing you.
Turn left and begin walking in a clockwise direction as the
faithful customarily do. Just beside the temple is the
planetary post for Mercury. The planetary post for Saturn
comes next, on the south-western side of the stupa. On the
opposite side is a pavilion containing 28
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Reclining Buddha,
Shwedagon
Pagoda |
images depicting the 28
‘avatars’ (previous
incarnations of Gautama Buddha. In the south-west corner of is a
monument with inscriptions in Myanmar, English, French and
Russian, commemorating the 1920 student revolt against the
British colonialists, which marked the start of Myanmar’s
drive for independence. Ahead on the left is the guardian
Nat, Bo Bo Gyi, with the King of the Nats, Thagyamin, are
encased in glass.
The Rakhine Tazaung with fine wood carvings on the tiered
roof is next. In the adjacent pavilion the eight and a half
meter (28-foot) reclining Buddha with head pointing north
indicates the Buddha’s transition into Nirvana.
The Chinese Merchant’s Tazaung
with a number of Buddha
images in varying
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postures
is next. Opposite this, under white
umbrellas are the figures of Mai Lamu and Sakka (Thagyamin), the legendary parents of the
founder King Okkalapa.
The landing at the top of the western staircase brings one
to the Temple of Kassapa, the third Buddha, or the West
Adoration Hall. Directly opposite, across the marble inlaid
walkway is the Two Pice Tazaung, |
The
pagoda orb,
decorated and worked into solid
gold are thousands of diamonds,
ruby gemstones, imperial
jade and other precious stones and
diamond jewelry from
Myanmar and elsewhere. All have been donated by Buddhist
devotees.
The western stairway with 166
steps steepest of the four, was also rebuilt with this money
after the 1931 fire, as was the Temple of Kassapa Buddha
which had been gutted in the same conflagration.
At the platform are plenty of
other small monuments such as the planetary post for Jupiter
stands just beside the Kassapa Temple. A bit farther,
under a white umbrella, is a sculpture of King Okkalapa.
The planetary post for Rahu is in the north-west corner, to the north is a small golden-spired
pagoda, the Pagoda of the Eight Weekdays.
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Pagoda Orb
Shwedagon
Pagoda Myanmar,
Buddhist
Temple.
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Shwedagon Pagoda Hill during
British times
Shwedagon Pagoda Hill during
British colonial times |
The 23-ton
Maha Ganda Bell of
the Shwedagon Pagoda cast
and donated by King Singu in 1779, is housed in a pavilion
close to this pagoda. In the north-west corner is a small
shrine which contains more flower offerings than the others
around it and has more devotees in attendance.
One Buddhist temple
on the platform has the Wonder Working
Buddha Image, reputed to perform miracles. Two Bodhi or
sacred banyan trees occupy the far north-west corner, the
smaller one being a cutting of the one in Bodhgaya, India,
under which Gautama Buddha gained enlightenment. The Wish
Fulfilling Place of the Pagoda, ever busy with homage-paying
pilgrims, is marked by a star-shaped contour. Many
supplicants frequent this place to make their wish come
true.
Proceeding onwards one comes to
a
Chinese Prayer Hall with fine
woodcarvings and
Chinese
dragon figures. Just beside this and close to the northern
entrance is the Prayer Hall or Tazaung with
Buddha’s
footprint, inside a dragon guards the Buddha, represented as
a prince. In front of him is the ‘chidawya’ (Buddha’s
footprint) which has 108 sections,
every one of them having a
special imprint. Large
life-size figures of Indians
stand guard
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outside this Tazaung.
The Zediyingana Society Library
is the building to the south, housing more than 6,000 books
on religion and Myanmar culture, the majority being rare
publications. This Zediyinganis one of those charged with
the responsibility to maintain the place and effect whatever
improvements that may be required.
The Sandawtwin Tazaung is
between the library on its north and the Temple or
Adoration
Hall of Gautama Buddha, the forth Buddha. This Temple in
located at the top landing of the northern staircase. The Sandawtwin Tazaung has underneath it, the spring where
Buddha’s eight hairs were washed before enshrinement in the
pagoda. Just past the Temple of Gautama Buddha stands the
Planetary Post for Venus, a favorite spot for the
Friday-born. Just opposite is a replica of the
Mahabodi
Pagoda in
Bodhgaya, India, the design of which is distinctly
Indian.
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The Kannaze Tazaung where, it is
said, King Okkalapa’s prayers for relics of the Buddha, were
granted, contains a Buddha image accordingly called
Sutaungpyit Buddha. Lift the stone, saying, “Let this stone
feel light in my hands, if my wish is to be granted.” If it
feels heavy, the supplicant has failed to obtain his / her
wish. In Mandalay a great pagoda is the
Mahamuni Temple or
Pagoda, actually a beautiful Buddhist Shrine can be seen
almost everywhere in Myanmar.
To the northeast
is the Shin Izza-Gawna Tazaung
(Monk Goat-Bull’s Pavilion),
the Buddha inside having
eyes of unequal sizes. It is
in honor of an eleven
century ‘zawgyi ‘(alchemist)
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Shwedagon Buddhist Shrine |
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who succeeded in his quest for the
Philosopher’s stone (mythical
substance believed capable of
turning base metal to gold or
silver), but alas, was forced to put
his eyes out because his long and
expensive alchemistic experiments,
sponsored by the king, had reduced
the country to penury and he still
had not discovered the stone. He was successful shortly after
losing his eyes and sent for a pair of either goat’s or
bullock’s eyes but unfortunately only one goat’s and one
bullock’s eye were obtainable, so with the aid of the
Philosopher’s Stone he restored his sight with the different
eyes and became known as Monk Goat-Bull. Immediately to the
north is the elder Brother or Naungdawgyi Pagoda, erected on
the spot where was originally kept the eight hairs of
Buddha, actually Buddha
statues are around
everywhere also a Buddhist
temple in various forms.
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Shwedagon |
The 42-ton Maha Tissada Bell
donated by King Thayawaddy in
1841 is housed in a spired and embellished pavilion close
by. Further away of the Pagoda entrance is the Planetary
Post for the Sun it is located at the northeast corner of
the main stupa.
Close to the
Naungdawgyi Pagoda, right smack
in the northeastern corner is the Dhammazedi inscription
dating back to 1485, telling the story of the Pagoda in
three languages, Pail, Mon and Myanmar. Walking onwards, one
reaches the temple of the
Kakusandha Buddha, opposite the
eastern stairway. |
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The Eastern Adoration hall is
regarded as the most ornate on the platform. The main figure
of Kakusandha, the first Buddha and three others in this
temple, have their right palms turned upward in a posture
which is not the usual one. The
Tawa Gu Buddha statue occupies a
niche on the upper terrace of the main stupa, behind the
Kakusandha Buddhist Temple. This statue has a reputation of
being able to perform miracles and only men are allowed to
climb onto the upper terrace for a fee. Here on the upper
terrace, the visitor will encounter highly devout Buddhists
in deep meditation. Just have a look at the Shwedagon Pagoda
Pictures here. The Planetary Post for the Moon
is beside the Kakusandha Buddhist Temple. The moon, in
Myanmar astrology, is recognized as one of the eight
planets. Across the Pagoda platform, adjacent to the east
stairway is the U Nyo Tazaung with wood carved panels
depicting events in the life of
Gautama Buddha. A Hamsa
Tagundaing or prayer pillar stands close to
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Buddha
Statues in a
Buddhist temple Shwedagon
Pagoda Festival |
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the southeast corner of the of the Buddhist temple platform with a
‘hintha’ bird (mythological bird, also called hamsa).
This Buddhist temple prayer
pillar are believed to bring fortune to the founders.
Another Bodhi tree grown from a cutting of the original one
in Bodhagaya, stands at the far southeast corner of the
platform. On a clear day, a good view of Yangon and over the
Yangon River towards Thanlyin can be seen from this point.
Also some museums and some more libraries are situated on
the Shwedagon Pagoda Platform.
First Shwedagon Pagoda
history information
come from the
end of the 14th Century. From Palace
chronicles we know that the king of
Hanthawaddy (Pegu or today Bago), Byinnya U,
started some restoration work on a stupa located
near the fishing village of Dagon from where
the the name of the stupa was derived. The
name Dagon was extended to Shwe Dagon, shwe
means gold and dagon means beautiful. The
restored stupa had a height of approximately
20 m.
About the following fate of the Shwedagon
already more information is available
indicating a series of further improvements
and modifications. All this was probably
done after an earthquake, since the middle
of the 16th Century until the beginning of
the 20th Century no less than eight
earthquakes were registered, among them the
pagoda was damaged and from "repair to
repair" the
pagoda grow taller and taller.
Towards the end of the 15th Century, the
Shwedagon already reached a height of
approximately 90 m. During the reign of
queen Shinsawbu in the years 1455 to 1462 a
platform around the stupa was created
enclosed with walls, this was the base to the
still existing ensemble of the Shwedagon
Pagoda.
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Shwedagon as seen by
Ralph Fitch |
This was also described
by Ralph Fitch
in the
year 1586… two or three days away from Pegu
stands a pagoda to which plenty of pilgrims
flock ever day. They call it Dagon, the
stupa had a unique height and is gilded from
top to ground level. Close by was a house
where the Tallipoyi, as their priests are
called pray.
This house is fifty five steps
long, inside are three corridors flanked by
forty gilded columns. This building is open to
all sides and inside are more small columns,
which are also gilded. Also the house itself
glinted from gold decoration internally and
externally, this was obviously the
ordination hall of the monks.
Also around are buildings where pilgrims can
rest and some are for the Tallipoyi, these
houses are full of male and female statues,
both male and female were gilded from top to
bottom. It looks like the most beautiful
place on earth.
The building is on top of a
hill and can be approached via four path
which are bordered left and right by fruit
trees to have shadow when walking the 1.5 km
to approach the platform…. |
The description of the English traveler
is interesting
in every detail every detail and confirmed
more or less the same composition and basic
features were in place by the 16th Century. Overtime
continues building and extensions were made, that
went on until today. The present height of the stupa was reached
during the Konbaung dynasty in 1774. The
king of Ava, Hsinyushin, extended the stupa
again and the current high of 99.5m was
reached and the current silhouette
implemented. Overall, the composition of
this Buddhist temple complex was basically
finished at the end of the 18th Century
although some work is going on continuously.
How is the Shwedagon today?
The rectangular
platform is 214 x 275m extending from north
to South and is about 25m raised over the
flat terrain surrounding. The pagoda
platform is in the center of Yangon city. As
usual in Burma four covered stairs and walk
ways lead to the platform, they are aligned
with the axis of the central stupa. The
stairs are covered with tired roofs.
The western
staircase has 175 steps, the southern
staircase which is the shortest has 104 and
leads directly into Shwedagon Pagoda Road
with Maha Mittaya Pagoda on the other side
of the exit. This is the main road directly
into the city center of Yangon, the exit is
guarded by 2 chinthes of about 2m height. As
in other countries the lion is a symbol of
power.
The central
stupa of the complex stands on the southern
part of the
platform.
Around the main stupa are
approximately 100 small temples,
each with Buddha sculptures in
the interior. Between them are
other sculptures of lions,
elephants, Nats (ghosts) and
Bilus (terrifying demons). At
the corners are sphinxes and
another 24 chinthes guardians,
six on each side.
In
line with the axes, directly
opposite are four Tazaungs with
multi-storey roofs called
Phyatthats. They are richly
decorated and hold the most
revered Buddha sculptures where
it can be meditated or prayed
facing them. The main stupa is
encircled with 64 small shrines,
four more are placed at the axes
of the complex. The central
building is distinguished by
bigger proportions, carefully
crafted details as well as how light and
shadow plays over the day. The Hti (pagoda
umbrella) on the top is made from seven
gilded rings and is 10 m height.
There is
probably no building in the world that
surpasses the Shwedagon regarding the amount
of use of gold and other precious ornaments
such as diamonds, donated jewelry and other
Myanmar precious stones.
The lower part
of the 99.5m high stupa is covered with gold
leaf, the upper features more than 14,000
gold films in the format 30 X 30 cm and a
total weight of about 100kg.
The Hti and diamond orb
sparkles in the glow of
countless gold and
silver bells surrounding
him. That extends into a
pole with a golden vane
and the Seinbu or
diamond in the form of a
golden ball of 25 cm
diameter. The pole is
made from silver and
decorated with four
golden Buddha. This
precious top of the
structure is decorated
with 5451 diamonds with
all together 2078 carats
and about 1470 other
precious stones, the
total number of golden
and silver bells is
1500.
The walk way around the
central stupa
narrows down up to 10 m
and widens elsewhere to
up to 30 m. The paving
is of Italian marble and
mosaic panels made of
concrete. This entire
area from the main stupa
up to the edge of the
platform is occupied by
numerous buildings and
objects of different
shape and purpose. These
include several dozen
stupas of different
size, many Tazaungs with
Buddha images and big
bells, rest houses for
pilgrims(Zayats) and the
administrative offices
of the pagoda they are
scattered in no
particular order.
Most objects on the
platform
have been built in
recent decades,
especially after the
devastating fire in 1931
which mainly destroyed
buildings on the east
and west sides. Some
with beautiful wood
carvings have been
preserved. This Tazaungs
spared from the fire are
at the northwest and the
remaining Southwest side
of the platform. In the
north is the Naungdawgyi
stupa with quite big
proportions.
The study of the history
of the pagoda
led to the conclusion
that this impressive
structure is not very
old, the inner core
might be but everything
around not. The central
stupa and some of its
essential parts were
renovated and rebuilt in
the 19th and even 20th
century the earliest
buildings on the
platform are from the
19th Century. As it is
with other buildings in
Myanmar there is a
continuous restoration
going on because usually
the torrential monsoon
rains and the immense
heat do a constant
deterioration. There is
never any isolation
against water be done as
it is in almost all
buildings in the west,
this let the walls
crumble constantly. |
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