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Mogok rubies &
mines for
quality gem
stones
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At
Mogok in
the center of the
country about 120 km
north of Mandalay,
precious
stones are
mined since
hundreds of
years, this
area stands
for rubies
and
sapphires. The mined gemstones
are traded
at the gem
market at
downtown. Mining
is done the old fashion way via washing the earth
and gravel extracted from the mines. The people handling rubies
exploration, digging and extraction are from different ethnic groups of the country, there are
Shan,
Kachin and other.
Chinese
usually do the gem trading |
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because that
bring the biggest share of money and they make the real
cash. On the other hand, its a risky
business and large sums of dollars must be available, in a
country without a banking system this is a real problem.
Almost all banks except the government bank collapsed during
the last Asian economic crises.
The
business is more in raw
gems and less in
jewelry.
Of course
there is some jewelry, like rings, earring, bracelets,
necklaces, pendants and other precious jewelry, but the real
jewelry business is done in Yangon and in
particular in Thailand. Most of the gem stones including star rubies and all varieties of rubies end up in Thailand and are put into beautiful
jewelry items in Bangkok and
Chanthaburi. |
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Interestingly they are sometimes
less expensive in Thailand than here, even with similar
quality and the people still call the king
of precious stones. After a miner find a
gemstone with some substantial value a mini pilgrimage leads
to the Chanthargyi Pagoda on a small hill, the place also provides
a great panorama over the town, lake and the surrounding hills
The word Mogok comes from the Bamar
Moegokesetwaing, meaning horizon. In Shan language it
means a cold place with early sunset. According to legend,
three hunters lost their way in the jungle and as they
made camp under a large fig tree, they found many fine rough
rubies dislodged by a landslide from a nearby hill.
They gathered many stones and
brought them to their Sawbwa at Momeik close by. This was
the start of a bonanza and since then thousands of precious and semi precious stones have
been found. Many people had some luck and got rich overnight
that's the reason why there is a continuous flow of people
coming in beside the harsh and rather primitive living
conditions there. They work in over thousand mines spread
over an area of about 5000 sqkm, this are open surface mines
and underground mines.
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Depending on the size
and capital
outlay for mines,
the gem bearing soil is excavated with some heavy excavator
or manually. The earth is diluted with water mixed with
water and moved through several metal sieves and inspected
carefully as it is running through, gems are collected if
there any, read
more.
The city is spread
out in the valley bottom,
in the
morning mist-clad, pricked
with fire and out of the mist the
shaped forms of mountains rise up in
vague outline above the valley. Some
miners suddenly grown rich, the
gambler poised between the strokes
of fate, the sorter dreaming of his
fortune.
The big market is permanent and always full with traffic,
along the road to women with great hats on their heads, and the
products of their gardens spread before them. Fruits and
vegetables abound, here are small tomatoes done up in little
cane cylinders, through the pattern of which the red fruit
glints, baskets of scarlet raspberries, piles of flowers,
and a variety of strange products from mushrooms to
bamboo-roots. Down these lanes the crow is laughing,
talking, bargaining, While the sun burns down and upon the colors of the clothes of the market
women . It is the East, the real East ; clean, neat, and
prosperous. Crescent silver neck lets, big again as the
moon, about their throats. Some are of the Shan, with fair
skin, with even a rosy flush in their cheeks all thoughts
are on the mines and can I strike it rich.
Here and there in the crowd is a
Burmese lady, in silk, velvet, pearls and a yellow
translucent parasol. Towering above the line of sight are houses of the prosperous trader, all of
stone, very high ; and from its mid-storey protrudes the
head of a retainer, pipe in mouth, his slit eyes restless,
absorbing.
At the window of a house at main street,
barred like a leopard's cage, sit groups of worker naked
and intent, sorting the rubies which lie in gleaming trays
upon their knees.
Other people roll cigars by the hour, selling
them to the passers-by. At intervals there are Chinese
eating-houses, equipped with little tables and stools, and
dressers fitted out with blue china, and chopsticks, and
pewter spoons. The fare is varied and savory, and pigs'
legs, plump fowls, cabbages and ducks, hang from strings
like a curtain. Houses are filled with
crowds of Shan, Lisu and others who crowd round
the little tables and feed in groups, bowl to chin, their
feet perched high up on the narrow stools. |

The
Mogok ruby town in the morning

Open air precious stone market at
down town

Selecting Burmese rubies

Open Mogok
rubies mining
or searching the water |
Mogok was the scene
of the original
immigration of the Tartar
descending at some indefinite date
before the sixth century B.C. from
the direction of Tibet towards the
foot of the Himalayas. Driven by
attacks from the west to migrate in
the direction of the Irrawaddy
valley. All accounts agree that they
came from the north-west, but
whether they came via the Hukawng
valley straight down the Upper
Irrawaddy, or via the Chindwin
valley, is uncertain. They founded
their first important capital at
Fagaung on the east bank of the
Irrawaddy. In process of time
the original settlers were
surrounded and engulfed by
incursions of the Shans, who in
turn, after various vicissitudes,
were subjugated by Alaung-paya and
incorporated in the Burmese Kingdom
of that time since the mines have
been a excellent source of income.
Consequently, the riverside tract of
this district, including the whole
of the Tagaung Township and the
major portion of the Thabeitkyin
Township with the exception of the
south-east portion thereof. Mogok,
the headquarters of the district, is
really a conglomeration of 12
villages which have been notified as
a town for revenue purposes, but are
administered under the Village Act.
The area of the town is 2.68 square
miles. The first settlements appear
to have been at Uyin and Thapanbin.
The Uyin villagers worked paddy in
the valley, and as it was evening
(me chok thi) before they got home
the cultivators established a
village near their fields, and named
the valley Mogok.
At the mines
rubies
are
discovered at the
original settlement Shanzu, now
Shandaw. The development of mining
led to the annexation of the Stone
Tract in Bodawpaya's time and the
administration was in the hands of
the so-thugyi appointed by the King.
Under that official were two
asitringyis or councilors who
performed the practical work of
Government, though in judicial
matters they did not pass orders but
submitted a report on which the
so-thugyi. passed judgment. Under
each asiyiugyi was an ein-u-saye, or
chief clerk, who had no executive
authority. Each separate village had
its thugyi under the control of the
so-thugyi, and in the centre of the
group a "zay-thugyi" exercised
authority over the three quarters of
Shandaw, Myoma and Aleywa at the mines.
None of
the officials had any regular pay.
The villages were assessed at what
they could be made to pay, and each
grade of official added a little to
the demand on his own account. When
the so-thugyi had levied his own
contribution the balance went to the
Royal Treasury. During the ten years
that preceded the annexation of
Burma by the British the mines were
managed direct on behalf of the King
by an official from Mandalay, but
the last two, U Waik, 1880-82, and
Nga Si (afterwards the Mogoung tam)
1882-85, left the so-thugyi a free
hand so long as their dues were
paid. After the annexation the
myothugyi appointed by the Deputy
Commissioner at first exercised
jurisdiction over the whole area so, but from 1895-96 his
authority was confined to Mogok
Town, and in 1904 the post of myothugyi was abolished. There were
no private rights in land, the whole
of the Stone Tract belonged to the
King. Since then not much has
changed, only the King was replaced
by the government and they just
collect taxes on a ruby mines for
doing nothing.
The
principal highways of the area are
the Irrawaddy and Shweli rivers,
although there are some roads but in
bad conditions means trading and
mining is not so easy.
It may be said
that practically all the villages in the
Thabeitkyin and Tagaung Townships with a few
unimportant exceptions, are situated on the
river bank. The principal trading centers
are Thabeitkyin, which is the port for the
city, Twinnge and Kyahnyat (the two river
termini of the main road from Mong Mit
State), Myadaung (opposite Tigyaing) and
Kanni, a little further north, the two
centres where the timber traders mainly
congregate, and Inywa at the junction of the
Shweli with the Irrawaddy in the extreme
north of the Tagaung township, which is the
principal rafting station for the timber
that comes down the Shweli.
The river
vessels call at the principal villages on
their way between Mandalay and Bhamo and
there is a ferry boat to Thabeitkyin from
Mandalay. The express steamers call at most
riverside cities when having passengers
calling. Inter village
communication other than between the special
points noted above is mainly by country boat
on the Irrawaddy and road or, if the journey
is down stream, by raft, either the ordinary
timber rafts bound for the Mandalay market
or the paddy rafts from the Mezachaung
valley of the Katha District, which bring
supplies to the riverine villages.
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The
mines
are operated according to the nature of the
ground.
They are known as:
(a) The Twin-lon or pit method used in
excavating alluvial deposits.
(b) The Hmyawdwin or open trench method
resorted to on the side of a hill.
(c) The Ludwin system for the extraction of
the gem bearing materials that fill the
limestone case.
A small round hole of sufficient diameter to
allow a man to descend comfortably by
placing his feet in small steps cut in the
sides, is sunk until the deposit of byon earth is met with.
Ordinarily speaking most mines worked by 3
men, two of whom work in turns for half a
day each sinking the shaft, while the third
man stands at |
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the top lowering a small
basket to haul up the earth.
The haulage is performed by
means of a small round
tray-like basket
(chingon) hung on to an anchor shaped piece
of stick (matanglat) which is attached to
the end of a spliced cane, varying in length
with the depth of the shaft. The cane is
attached to the end of a long bamboo rod
(maungdon) pivoted on a high pole
(maung-doing) with a counter weight
(nauk-myi-chin), in the shape of a basket of
stones, at the further end. |
The digger
at the bottom of the shaft
squats to his
work, for which he uses a small hoe
(tuytoin) and an iron jumper (tkangyaung).
Down to a depth of around 10 meters the work
is not difficult. Below that level it is
usually necessary to sink a shaft parallel
to
and a few feet from the first, with which
it communicates below ground, to provide
ventilation.
When the layer
of byon is reached, lateral horizontal
passages are driven. The sides of the
twin-Ions, except where the earth is very
firm, are shored by means of vertical posts
(ra-o-daing) with horizontal beams (tok) at
intervals. Across these are fixed cross
pieces (doing) which are small poles of
about 14 diameter, behind and between which
are stuffed grass and leaves. The terns
twin-Ion is only applied to circular shafts
big enough for a man to creep down. The
ordinary sized square shaft is known as
lebin, which is a square with sides of 1
cubit and 1 span, or kobin, with sides of 3
cubits. In the latter case, apart from the
shoring arrangements noted above, cross
timbering divides the shaft vertically into
smaller squares.
Larger mines are known as Inbye, and vary in
size. It is not a usual form of mining as it
is very costly in timber.
From the nature of the position in which the
pits are sunk twin-lon operations can only
be carried on in the dry season.
This is open cut mining
A stream of
water, sometimes brought from a distant
source by channels and aqueducts, is
directed to the upper end of the working,
whence the earth is carried in a slush to
the tail race of the excavation. The lighter
earth is washed away and the heavier
material (including the precious stones)
remains. This is then washed according to
the method described below. This method of
working is used mostly in the rainy season
when plenty of water is available. These are
merely excavations into the sides of the
hills, following the gem producing deposit
through the cases and crevices of the lime
stone. A shallow, more or less circular
enclosure (known as ye-ban gwet) is made
with. big stones, the floor of which
slopes slightly to the lower end. Into this
the earth is placed and a
stream of water directed on it, while the
whole mass is stirred up. At the lower end
of this enclosure there is a small outlet
leading into a hollow of about a foot or if
feet in depth, through which the water and
debris flow away. This is the zalok. When
the earth and lighter material from the mass
of byon are judged to be sufficiently washed
away, the heavy gravel which contains the
precious stones, chiefly varieties of
corundum the specific gravity of which is
very high, is gradually pulled towards the
mouth of the zalok with mamooties, and then
a man standing across the mouth of the zalok
proceeds to scrape into it the bearing
residue, water pouring over it all the
time and of course carrying away
occasionally precious stones, which by the
custom of the country become the perquisites
of the Karen women.
Gradually by
this process the whole of the zalok gets
filled up with a very heavy layer which is
scraped out by means of shallow bamboo trays
known as pauktus. Each tray is then taken
and washed in water with a circular motion
so as to get rid as much as possible of the
light earth and sand, and the residue is
then turned out on to the earth by the side
of the working (where it is known as
theban). It is then sorted by the proprietor
of the mine or some trustworthy person, the
rubies and other precious stones being
placed inside a hollow bamboo which is stuck
upright in the earth alongside, and known as
the sinlebauk. When the theban or washed
gravel has been sorted it is known as
the bat, and in that condition the
women are allowed to go and take portions of
it to resort in the hope of finding a stone
that has been overlooked. While the byon is
being washed in the yebangwet, any extra
large stones are picked out and put on one
side, forming what is known as the
kyaukpyon, and by custom any person has a
right to search therein and, if he finds a
stone, to take it although not the owner of
the mine. This, of course, is according to
the native custom ; for tinder the
ruby mines regulation, any male person who picks up a
stone without holding a license renders
himself technically liable to imprisonment.
Burmese ruby mines
using a process
called the yemyon, an open sluice box made of planks
takes the place of the yebangwet. In this
the byon is washed by means of a stream of
water. The lower end of the sluice box leads
into a zalok or hollow, as noted above. This
form of washing is mostly used in the case
of what is known as Kathe yaik working which
really consists in removing the original
surface layer of soil to a depth of at most
one or I feet when the byon happens to be on
the surface, whence it is merited to some
other spot where water is available for
washing. This ruby mines stone system is said to have been so
called because it was adopted in the original instance by the Manipuri captives
whom the Burmese Kings sent to these parts
as royal slaves to work the mines. Not
understanding anything about mining they
could not make twin-/o s and lanyaws like
the local people, and so resorted to
scraping the surface and washing it for what
they could find. The term is now applied to
surface operations generally, wherever
conducted. |
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They dig the soil, yellow and
scarred with pits. Hill people in blue clothes and yellow
parasol-like hats ; people in loose trousers, showing legs
tattooed with tigers and dragons ; people small of stature
with muscles of iron, the process of mining is simple.
A straight bamboo pole twenty
feet high stuck like a mast in the yellow soil. Near its
top, through a slit, works another horizontally; at one end
of it a make-weight, a basket filled with mud or stones, at
the
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other a long
cane reaching down like the line of a
fisherman last of all a bucket to hold
water or mud, as the case may be. If it be
water, the miner stands at the little
pit's mouth, lowers the bucket, lets it fill
and come up again, the cane slipping through
his fingers ; and on its emerging, tilts the
water from it into a channel, down which it
runs yellow and turbid to swell the stream
by the roadside.
If mud, the
digger in the pit fills it with a spade and
lets it run up to the man overhead, who
empties it with a jerk of his wrist on to an
adjoining mud-heap. When this heap has grown
big enough it is washed, and the rubies are
visible. At a corner, in the dazzling |
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sun of the afternoon, a child stops, scraping the
yellow earth from a dry heap into a shallow
basket. A child at play it would seem, but
when the little basket is laden she carries
it away to where a woman in a dark blue kilt
is at work, close to her figure as she sits,
a pale yellow coat and pink silk bound about
her coils of black hair. Her wide sleeves
lift as she works,' revealing her slender
arms.
Her gem business
in life so much at least as she
transacts here - is to let the yellow stream run through
each basket of earth, till all the concealing clay is washed
away and pebbles alone survive ; from this remnant to pick
out with precision rubies, which she slips under her tongue
till her mouth is full. The occupation has its merits.
Little streams of yellow mud
run across the plain,
making pools and puddles where the precious stones are extracted from,
run in bewildering variety the. This is Mogok mining in
its indigenous simplicity. In a very little space off the
main street and in the park, groups of people with wide hats
are clustered close together, one is stricken with curiosity
to know what they are about. You crush into the crowd and
find yourself in the midst of the buyers and sellers of
rubies.
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Mogok mine pumping
water
and search the gravel
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In the centre of each group
there is a shining brass tray full of rubies and it looks
like a disc of beaten gold in the sun. By it sits the buyer,
ringed by satellites, each of whom believes himself an
expert. Then there is a swaying in the crowd, and a miner
edges in, picturesque in his wide trousers and great
flapping hat, and subsides by the tray on his haunches.
There is a little cloth bag in his hands, tied very tightly
round the neck with string. Slowly he unwinds the suing and
the masked eyes of the buyer glitter. No word is spoken. The
gem trader is in no hurry, when at last the long
string has been unwound and the hand clasping the little
globe of cloth relaxes its amatory grip, the mouth of the
bag is turned down, and from its interior there flows into
the tray the red stream of
gemstones.
The gem
buyer moves in,
his his long fingers reach out swiftly and in an instant the little
pyramid of rubies is spread over the shining disc, each
stone blinking in the light. For the next few seconds and
still in silence, fingers are moving. At this gem
market the good and the bad
stones are separated from each other, and formed into two
little piles ; the bad rubies are being pushed back to the
seller's end of the tray; the good rubies brought
instinctively a little closer to the buyer. At this stage
discussion starts. All the critics have their say ; the
seller eloquent, the buyer cold and deprecatory. Thus the
duel proceeds, there is a score of these trays, like suns in
the close cluster of men, and that is nearly all there is to
tell about. Like all that is truly Eastern, the process
is simple in its character,
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limitless in its fascination.
One can describe in a minute what one can look upon with
interest for hours.
Look at the buyers, they are backed by a hundred
thousand dollar of capital. Many came to the town a few years
ago as poor people. Some got some money into their fingers.
After a while they lend it at high interest rates, on the
security of gold and rubies. Then they change to the gem trade and now some of them are the richest guys around.
At the gem market
is plenty of gem trading but
no jewelry
shops, business is done in the park,
the whole atmosphere is very similar
to Chanthaburi in Thailand where
most of the precious stones found
are ending up for sale. Here is only the
first stop on the way to some beautiful jewelry
elsewhere, usually in India, China, Singapore, just
name it.
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Mogok gem
on a copper plate, rough and
uncut |
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Jewelry
is usually enhanced with some
diamonds around to get real good sparkling jewelry. In
recent years Burmese rubies lost quite some market share
because of the political problems.
Around
is typical rural and
very interesting to watch how life is going on, notably
considering that many different ethnicities live in that
area without conflict since there are no external sides to
steer up conflicts means English and other colonialists.
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