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G
olden Myanmar


G
olden Myanmar, Myanmar culture, Myanmar Bagan, Myanmar tourism, Myanmar tours,
Mandalay Myanmar, pagoda, temple.
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Myanmar also known as the land of pagoda and "the Golden Land' has a long and very complex history.

Myanmar history is centered around Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and some other ancient cities along the Ayeyarwady River or  Irrawaddy River.

Yangon or Rangoon the former capital is the main city in Myanmar, but not the capital anymore. The new capital is Naypyidaw, Mandalay in central Myanmar is the second biggest city in the country and known as a cultural and religious hotspot.

Bagan the old capital under King Anawrahta was the main Myanmar or Burmese city between (1044 to 1286 A.D.).

Buddhism is the primary religion in Myanmar, there also are animistic ideas centered around the Nats, this are Myanmar ghosts since ancient times.

Myanmar as a country is dedicated to Buddhism and has lots of variations due to the topography and is one of the great travel destination on planet earth. From the snow peaks of the Myanmar Himalayas through the tempered climate of the Shan plateau. The jungle in the hills of Myanmar and the dry zone in central Myanmar.

The tropical islands in the Myanmar Andaman Sea with the sea gypsies and a great underwater world, ideal for scuba diving. Plus myriads of pristine beaches on Myanmar mainland and islands wait for the traveler on his exotic Myanmar tour.

Several Myanmar Airlines such as Yangon Air, Myanmar Airlines International, Air Bagan and other serve the international and domestic Myanmar air traffic. The main domestic airline is the state owned Myanmar airlines

The Buddhist culture of old Burma, was originally a product of the vast river basin of the Ayeyarwady or Irrawaddy river, with an extension south-eastwards along the coast to the delta of the Salween river.

All the venerable city sites where major Myanmar art was produced belong to this lowland region. It is not particularly surprising; since even now the higher ground is clothed in dense rain-forest, and has been inhabited for many centuries by people whose folk-religion demanded no expression in stone, bronze or fired clay – the only materials likely to survive for long in the wet monsoon climate.

Buddhism of the Theravada or Hinayana branch was established as the dominant religion in AD 1056, under the king who unified the country, Anawrahta of Bagan. If you travel to Myanmar there is no way around to have a excellent travel insurance like this is not because of any particular problem. Myanmars are more civilized than Swiss e.g. because Swiss let you die in the trench if you wont give money first. But if you have a health problem due to a accident or whatever which is not under your control the environment might be not as you expected and in Myanmar cash is requested.

This event represents a historical dateline in relation to which the whole of early Myanmar history is most easily understood. But Anawrahta was setting up his state religion as a unifying force in opposition to earlier forms of Buddhism and so-called `nature religion', or believing in Nat. which had their own history behind them, and had probably produced an art oft their own.

Burmese Culture
Burmese Culture

So deeply entrenched were these earlier forms of religion that they were never in fact taken off from the minds of the Myanmar, but only modified and slightly adapted to fit the religious patterns of Theravada Buddhism. Its great strength is that it can fit itself very easily into almost any social and cultural framework, without losing its identity and without demanding of its followers a culturally damaging renunciation of their own customs. Thus works of art are found based on popular non-Buddhist religious themes of 

Bhuddhism
Buddhism and Buddha

considerable antiquity, even in the art of later times. And many Myanmar of the present day are as devoted to the worship of the Nats to astrology and even to alchemy, as they are to the doctrines of the Buddha.

Myanmar lies close to India, and during the early Middle Age India was a land of enterprise, sending out her merchants and colonists to many parts of Southeast Asia. Myanmar received his own groups of Indian settlers at that time and later pushed by the British colonialists..  

Brahmin astrologers are know to have been in the service of medieval kings in both Prome and Bagan. And although Hindu images dating from the sixth to tenth centuries AD have been found, Hinduism never establish itself firmly in Myanmar

.Various Indian forms of Buddhism however, did. The principal opponents of Anawrahta's
Worship of the Nats
Worship of the Nats

introduction of Theravada Buddhism were a religious order know to history as the Ari. They were probably monks of Mahayana

Myanmar at Prome
Myanmar at Prome

sects, for at Prome and at Bagan a number of images of Mahayana `deities' have been excavated. The astrology practiced in Bun is of Indian type too, so altogether it seems that the influence of. Indian culture has always' been strong, mainly in its Buddhist manifestations.

It is probable that the social structure implicit Hindu theory helped to make it unacceptable to the tribally orientated peoples of Myanmar.

Tribally orientated Myanmar people
Tribally orientated Myanmar people

The earliest concrete evidence of the presence of Indian influence on Myanmar soil are the fragments of Pali Buddhist canonical texts found at Old Prome dating to about AD 500.

Myanmar Chin and tattooed
Myanmar Chin and tattooed

Documentation of the early history of Myanmar is scant. Much of Myanmar history is fanciful, for genuine history was not a Burmese forte.

Chinese sources refer to wild, tattooed and cannibal tribes -see Chin-  using bows and arrows. Ptolemy's Geographica identifies a coastline, possibly around Moulmein, where cannibals lived.

To the seventh, eighth and ninth centuries AD probably belong inscriptions from Prome and Old Prome which refer to kings with Indian names, some of whom may have been connected .

Buddha with inscription at Prome
Buddha with inscription at Prome

with the Pallava kings of south-east India. It seems, however that before Anawrahta's unification of the kingdom two principal population groups divided the country between them.

In the south, in the lower Ayeyarwady or Irrawaddy valley,

and along the coast, the Western Mon people lived. They were close relatives of the Eastern Mon, who produced a wealth of art in Thailand and Cambodia, and spoke a language of their own.

The Western Mon of Myanmar produced fine art too, most of it Theravada Buddhist. In the upper Irrawaddy valley the Pyu people were at first dominant. They spoke a Tibeto - Burman language, and were mainly Buddhists of one kind or another – though Hindu deities were known among them. They were recorded by the Chinese, whose Tang dynasty history gives a description of an eighth-

Ayeyarwady or Irrawaddy river valley people
Ayeyarwady or Irrawaddy river valley people

century Pyu city. It was 160 li (about  54 miles) in circumference, walled and moated, containing more than a hundred

Buddhist monasteries lavishly adorned with colors, silver and gold. When the northern Pyu capital was captured and the

Buddhist Monasteries at Bago
Buddhist Monasteries at Bago

people enslaved by a neighboring kingdom in Yunnan, the way was left open for the infiltration from the Chinese-Tibetan border-country of the 'Myanmar' people.

They intermingled with and came to dominate the Pyu and Mon, being converted by them to Buddhism. It seems that by about AD 1000 the process of conversion had already begun, for then a Myanmar ruler of Bagan endowed the foundation of a Buddhist ordination hall.

Nats Shrine at Yangon
Nats Shrine at Yangon
Nats spirits
Nats spirits
The Nats were worshipped with orgiastic ceremonies
The Nats were worshipped with orgiastic ceremonies

 

These Myanmar were probably the original worshippers of the Nats,

and transmitted their cult in exchange to the peoples from whom they learned Buddhism.

The Nats are an extra-ordinary mixed collection of deities, including spirits of trees, rivers, ancestors, snakes, and the ghosts of people who have met a violent or tragic death. They like a peaceful life, and they can wreak destructive vengeance on people who annoy them.

Originally they were numberless. But in time a canonical number of thirty-six was fixed for them, with the Buddha included as the thirty-seventh.

The Nats were worshipped with orgiastic ceremonies, and trance-rites of spiritual possession.

Mount Popa, an extinct volcano near Bagan, became the sacred mountain of a group of them. Even today the Nats exert a powerful influence on the thought and experience of modern Myanmar.

The quality of the feeling the Myanmar have for their Nats is of the greatest importance in the whole of Myanmar art; for the expression of the best work is imbued with this feeling, even the decoration of the huge temples of Bagan.

It supplies the only spark of inspiration in the otherwise lifeless, colossal images of the Buddha found everywhere. The Nats

Nats at Mount Popa
Nats at Mount Popa
Mount Popa an extinct volcano near Bagan
Mount Popa an extinct volcano near Bagan
Huge temples of Bagan
Huge temples of Bagan
themselves first appear in the art of old Bagan. There was a collection of old wooden Nat images in the Shwezigon Pagoda at Bagan during the late nineteenth century.
Teakwood carved by Myanmar sculptors
Teakwood carved by Myanmar sculptors

Teakwood carved by Myanmar sculptors which is now in Oxford. Images of this kind must have exerted a great influence on the course of art.

For in the best Myanmar art a sense of mystery emanates from these disembodied presences, invisible personalities inhabiting the forest trees, for whom magic is as normal a procedure as the use of hands,

Nats figures at Mount Popa
Nats figures at Mount Popa
Myanmar Nats
Myanmar Nats
The 32 of the Nats
The 32 of the Nats
Buddhist Temple or Pagoda
Buddhist Temple or Pagoda


and who are not looked on with any excessive awe.

In some districts, in every Nat-inhabited tree and in every village home there is a Nat-house, made of bamboo and grass, and decorated with bright pieces of cloth and tinsel.

The undulating, flame-like pointed plaques and pinnacles which adorn Myanmar architecture, and which celestial figures and court dancers wear on their shoulders, are intended to suggest the transcendent realm of magic and heavenly delight in terms peculiarly Myanmar.

The sensual opulence of the Indian history vision of the heavens pro-vided the original inspiration for the Myanmar version.

The texts of Buddhism are full of descriptions of the palaces of the gods, but in Myanmar art heaven is imbued with a gentle elegance and affection, while the Indian emphasis on the physical body is discounted.

Since these people have always lived in immediate proximity to their invisible neighbors, they are as familiar to them as the inhabitants of the next village. And as the Nats are spiritual beings, and 'heaven' is the region spiritual beings inhabit, the Myanmar image of heaven is of a kind of vastly enlarged village of Nat-houses.

The Buddhist temple, which according to Indian precedent may be a symbolic representation of heaven, is conceived in Myanmar as a hugely glorified Nat-house, for the Buddha was adopted as the greatest of the Nats. So the same symbols of supernatural splendor as adorn the Nats adorn the Buddha's images, and a Nat-like spirituality attaches to the ubiquitous monks in whom the presence of Buddhism is experienced as an everyday reality.

King Anawrahta (Indian form : Aniruddha)

Myanmar Dancer
Myanmar Dancer
Nat Number 4
Nat Number 4
Tempel at Bagan
Tempel at Bagan

was of Myanmar stock, and ruled at Bagan in the old Pyu kingdom. He captured the venerable Mon capital of Thaton and carried off its royal family, many skilled craftsmen and most of the Theravada monks, to Bagan. The superior culture of the Mon captives was recognized. They were honored, and given the task of organizing and civilizing the new Myanmar kingdom. Under Anawrahta's successors, links with the Buddhist homeland were forged. Embassies were sent to Bodhgaya in Bihar, and the great Mahabodhi temple there – marking the spot where the Buddha achieved enlightenment – was restored with Myanmar money, perhaps even slightly in Myanmar taste. And although Theravada was the officially established form of religion, tolerance was extended to other forms, and it is clear that the form of

Theravada adopted was itself impregnated with elements from other doctrines. The Mahayana had its devotees, and there are some tenth-century frescoes on a temple at Bagan suggesting that the Tantric. Buddhism (Vajrayana) of Bengal was popular for a time. From the eleventh to the thirteenth century was the 'golden Age' of Myanmar art. In 1287 Myanmar was sacked and garrisoned by the Mongols. Thereafter Myanmar art traditions petrified.

The art of the epoch before Anawrahta, however, in the Pyu region of Upper Myanmar, must have had its own splendor. The one Pyu city to have been investigated archaeologically, the old Shri Kshetra, now Pyi - Prome - Pyay, was enclosed in a massive wall. It was larger than Bagan or even Mandalay, and Mon inscriptions refer to it as the capital even after Anawrahta's death.

Near the city are three huge ruined pagodas, the largest one a hundred and fifty feet high; a number of small, vaulted, brick chapels probably formed part of the religious complex. The pagodas are tall, brick cylinders, mounted on shallow, stepped circular plinths. Their apices already have the characteristically Myanmar concave bell-like pinnacle tapering to the central point.

Shri Kshetra Pyu Pagoda Ruins from the 15th century
Shri Kshetra Pyu Pagoda Ruins from the 15th century
New Myanmar Pagoda Architecture Maha Wizaya Pagoda Yangon
New Myanmar Pagoda Architecture Maha Wizaya Pagoda Yangon

The later course of Myanmar pagoda architecture can be described generally as the gradual elimination of what was the main body of the Pyu pagoda – the cylindrical drum – and the progressive amalgamation of the forms of the flange-molded apex with the stepped plinth. The Pyu chapels follow two patterns. One is a simple rectangular hall, with massive walls, buttresses and a single framed entrance door. The other is square in plan, set upon a square central plinth, with entrance doors on each of the four sides. This latter pattern follows a familiar Indian type.

The works of art found at Shri Kshetra today Pyi or Pyay are extremely varied, and little order can yet be introduced into them. There are plenty of stone images of the Hindu god Vishnu – who is, incidentally, the Hindu deity most often encountered in Southeast Asia. As, he represents the central principle of existence, lie travels more easily than other Hindu deities who are more closely involved with the native Indian social structure.

The Ari religion is probably represented by a few works of art based on the Mahayana form of Buddhism. There are bronze images of Bodhisattvas, who were especially cultivated by the Mahayana. These are enlightened, compassionate beings, entitled to Nirvana, who yet abstain from their own release in order to save the suffering creatures who are still in bondage to the world. They are able through their great virtue to perform miracles. They appear in art as beautiful persons, wearing the crowns and jewels of kingship. There are orthodox Theravada Buddhist images, as well, and inscriptions.

The Pyu evidently used to burn their dead and place the ashes in pottery vessels which were kept in rows in the precincts of the shrine, sometimes on brick platforms covered with earth.

Unfortunately, little is known of the earliest phases of Western Mon art in Myanmar. Its achievements are known from a later phase when it was exercised in the service of Anawrahta's Theravada Bagan, and it produced a splendid profusion of architecture and other art.

Bagan Pagoda Architecture
Bagan Pagoda Architecture
At Bagan architecture

is definitely the dominant art, and except for the big icons, sculpture and painting have only a subordinate role to play. Carving and ornament never take the prominent role they do in the origin it Indian buildings, or in other parts of Southeast Asia.

The materials of the Bagan Myanmar pagodas are brick and stucco, and they have lasted pretty well. A single Hindu temple, and a few remains of Mahayana inspiration, survive among the mass of Theravada structures belonging to the two hundred years of Bagan's greatness, before the Mongol conquest. They have, of course, suffered neglect, damage, and some – perhaps worst of all – from restoration in debased style. Even so, Bagan still contains the largest surviving group of the brick buildings which once stood in many parts of south Asia.

Bagan Pagoda remains
Bagan Pagoda remains
Bagan Monastery
Bagan Monastery

There are thousands of Pagoda remains in Bagan Myanmar , and the relatively dry central Myanmar weather must have much to do with this. Similar to India, the surviving monuments are only the remains of an great volume of building, most of which must have been made of wood but wood is prone to fire and other natural decay. Only sacral buildings where made from stone and bricks.

Myanmar teak was abundant in the jungles of upper Myanmar, and bamboo grows everywhere means most of the structures from before were gone over time.

The huge area of Bagan Myanmar extended far beyond the limits of the known city walls, and it is likely that the surviving brick monuments remains were surrounded by dense building in perishable materials. About these, however, it is possible only to spectaculate and assume that they supplied patterns and prototypes for what can still be seen standing in brick and stucco.

From the inscriptions we know that royal devotees frequently turned their teak palaces over to the uses of religion. So it is probable that monastic architecture and palace architecture were at the very least compatible.

And what is more, Bagan Myanmar monastery were – and still are – adorned with a splendor worthy of the palaces of divine kings – gilded, painted, and carved with lavish ornament. The Myanmar monks are committed to a life of absolute poverty, but their laity, to whom they symbolize the saving Truth, ensure that the glory of this symbolism is made apparent in the monastic environment.

The most important early buildings at Bagan Myanmar are the two shrines flanking the Tharabha gate to the city, which contain damaged images of the Mahagiri Nats, and the early monastic library, the Pitakattaik. All are built in brick, with solid walls.

The Tharabha gate Bagan shows the relics of the flat pilasters and molded architrave which are a common feature of Myanmar building, particularly at the corners of the structures. The shrines themselves are very simple, and have obviously lost their original ornaments.

The rectangular library, however, retains its five-tiered roof, from which sprout flamboyant, curvilinear flanges, and which is crowned by a central spire. It is reminiscent in its proportions of Indian prototypes. A library, of course, is an important building in a Buddhist monastery, for books are vehicles of the doctrine.

The most numerous and important buildings at Bagan Myanmar, however, should be classed as cetiyas. They have a history and line of evolution of their own, from pagoda into huge structural temple. The normal pagoda is a tall structure incorporating on a plinth a solid dome, which is surmounted by a member called the harmika. Originally, on the oldest Indian pagodas, this harmika was a small railed enclosure, inside and below which the relic-chamber was set into the dome.

But in Myanmar pagodas the harmika has become a large decorated die. Above the harmika is a circular pointed spire, flanged, in memory of its origin, as a range of honorific umbrellas of decreasing size, set one above the other, over the harmika and relic-chamber. In practice, harmika and umbrella-spire become a single architectural unit. Cetiyas based on the pagoda are the true focus of the Buddhist faith. The pagoda-temple and its Buddha image is a direct functional derivative of the pagoda as emblem of final Nirvana.

Bupaya Pagoda
Bupaya Pagoda

Pagodas of a pattern related to the old Pyu pagoda at Shri Kshetra are found at Bagan.

The earliest, the Bupaya Pagoda , at Bagan Myanmar was actually built by the Pyu. It stands on a high platform; its own plinth is simple, low, and octagonal. Its harmika and umbrella-spire form a single, tall concave-sided cone.

The pagoda type usually attributed to Anawrahta is similar to this old Pyu pattern. The main point of evolution is in the greater elaboration of the terraced plinths. These pagodas stand on a series of stepped octagonal terraces, which may themselves stand on what are virtually sacred mountains –further terraces with staircases mounting from terrace to terrace up each of the four sides. In this they resemble monuments in other parts of Southeast Asia. The domes are tall, bell-shaped cylinders, often with bands of ornamental molding half-way.

Two versions, both reworked, of the type of majestic pagoda associated with King Anawrahta of Bagan Myanmar. The high plinths which resemble sacred mountains carry terraces around which pilgrims can walk up.

Shwesandaw Pagoda
Shwesandaw Pagoda

Their crowning spires vary in pattern. Some resemble a series of diminishing built-tiers, others more closely resemble piled-up flanges. The most significant characteristic of some of these pagodas attributed to Anawrahta – for example the Shwesandaw Pagoda– is found on the series of rectangular terraces forming the sacred mountain on which the pagoda stands.

At the corners of these terraces replicas of  themselves are given horizontal bands of molding. In the earlier instances of this type of pagoda at least two of the five or six octagonal plinth-terraces can be used for circumambulation. But with the development of huge rectangular terraced storeys of the sacred mountain at the end of the eleventh century, the octagonal terraces atrophy, and become no more than molded flanges round the lower rim of the bell-shaped dome.

By the twelfth century the pattern of the pagoda has changed into the form from which the true Myanmar temple was to spring. The dome has become highly ornate, the bands of ornament found on the older Pyu or Pyay type having become wider and deeper, with Buddhas in framed cartouches facing out in the four cardinal directions.

Ananda Temple and Pagoda
Ananda Temple and Pagoda
Bagan Myanmar Pagodas
Pagoda and Buddha image
Pagoda and Buddha image
Pagoda and Buddha image
Pagoda and Temple Bagan
Pagoda and Temple Bagan

The old octagonal plinths have become an elaborate e series of flanged moldings round the base of the dome. The spire has become a massive conical molded and flanged crown to the dome, while the lower, square tiers of terraces have become fewer in number and individually higher, so that each presents a tall wall surface. The miniature spires at the terrace corners have become virtually miniature pagodas. The epitome of this style is the Seinnyet Nyima cetiya at MyinBagan.

On monuments in Bagan Myanmar of this last type, decorative figure sculpture comes very much to the fore. There can be little doubt that .n this respect – and in the actual form of the pagoda, notably in the new weight of the conical spire – there is a strong reassertion of Indian influence. For it was about the time when this development was taking place that the Myanmar, on their own account, established relations with the heartland of Buddhism in Bihar. There the late Pala style was flourishing, and it would be entire .y natural for the Myanmar

to wish to attach themselves to the expressive modes of the country which was the source of their religious inspiration. It is likely that at the same time the Myanmar were prompted to a further architectural development it by what they saw in contemporary India.

This involved the opening up of the terraced base of the pagoda into a temple interior. The sacred mountain was a piece of natural Myanmar symbolism, for Mount Popa was the home of the great Nats, and hollow Nat shrines, described above, had been made. In India the symbolism of the temple as sacred mountain had been very highly evolved, and the whole interior of the massive pile of the temple had been opened up, on the

analogy of the cave in the hillside. Within the sacred mountain the germ of its sanctity could be made visible in its hollow depths. In the eastern regions of India where the Myanmar were making contact under Anawrahta's successors, the centrally planned brick temple was a standard architectural pattern.

Buddhist cave sanctuary
Buddhist cave sanctuary

It was crowned by a molded spire, raised on a high plinth, with staircases at the centre of four sides. Under the spire was the main cell where the chief image was housed.

In India, too, it had long been conventional for the rock-cut pagoda within a Buddhist cave-sanctuary to bear on its face a carved figure of the Buddha. This was to demonstrate that the Buddha nature dwelt inside the monumental 

Rock cut pagoda at powintaung
Rock cut pagoda at Powintaung

emblem of Nirvana, the Buddhist Truth. By a combination of these two conceptions the Myanmar arrived at the idea of their own pagoda-temple. By burrowing into the undercroft of their pagodas, as into the sacred mountain which the terraces suggested, they could open up an internal temple area, in which the Buddha image would occupy the central spot. The pagoda-dome would serve as mountain-peak and spire.

But since the association of Buddha image and pagoda was accepted, the pagoda would naturally be thought of as extending down into the undercroft to contain the Buddha image. The surrounding terraces of the sacred mountain could then also be interpreted as lean-to roofs, even awnings round the root of the pagoda-drum. The exterior of the temple could still suggest the idea of the sacred mountain crowned by its pagoda.

Temple Interior Myanmar
Temple Interior Myanmar

But the new logic of the temple interior would add a fresh dimension to the idea, as a place to be entered for a direct encounter with the true doctrine.

Sculpture and Buddha Image painting at Bagan Myanmar on halls, corridors and doorways could recount the life of the Buddha, and present the example of his previous lives.

The opening up of the lower terraces 

as buildings with internal wall faces of their own would make it unnecessary for the roofs of the tiers actually to serve as ambulatory terraces.

Following the Indian symbolism of the cosmic mountain, however, what had been the terrace-corners retained their small pagodas, for the cosmic mountain naturally possessed its foothills. Finally, the terraces as well as the inner rooms and passages became the heavenly habitat of all the spiritual creatures of Myanmar and Buddhist mythology.

The first phase of this temple development is represented by the Abeyadana temple at Bagan Myanmar, which is really a pagoda, but its bottom storey is opened into an ambulatory corridor lit by latticed windows. The window-frames are set between flat pilasters, and crowned with a lobed hood-molding worked with a row of flame-finials.

The 'Tally Temple' near the Sabbannu or Thatbyinnyu, Bagan, is a splendid example of a twelfth-century temple. The central mountain-spire is a large, bell-domed pagoda, worked with lavish stucco surface ornament, which stands clear and intact on top of the terraced structure.

The terrace block of the temple has become a true building, and the terraces themselves have been reduced to a stepped roof. The four tall entrance doors are double-framed, stepped-out with porches, and crowned with high flame-finial hoods. The walls are deeply recessed and heavily plastered ; the base and architrave have deeply worked horizontal moldings; the corner pinnacles are square in section.

Two other twelfth-century temples in Bagan Myanmar show the further course of the evolution. In both of them the pagoda-spire has been, as it were, absorbed into the square body of the terrace block. It has become square in section, though its umbrella-pinnacle remains circular.

It is clearly following the pattern of the bowed spire of east Indian temples in scale, seeming to be no more than the largest of the many spires on the terrace roofs.

Thatbyinnyu or Sabbannu Temple
Thatbyinnyu or Sabbannu Temple

The first of these temples is the great Sabbannu or Thatbyinnyu Temple itself, built immediately before the 'Tally Temple' - the latter is said to have been built of the tally bricks put aside, one for each ten thousand bricks used on the Sabbannu.

The Sabbannu or Thatbyinnyu itself is a typical square temple formed as an opened-up terrace block. Inside, in a domed cell under

the main spire is a colossal seated Buddha figure. But this temple is itself raised on its own solid sacred mountain plinth of three square terraces, the lowest storey of which is again high, and opened up with an ambulatory corridor, lit by two tiers of flame-hooded windows.

Passages and stairways run up through the massive plinth. The second of these temples is the Nagayon, at MyinBagan.

This is an integral square temple, of a broader spread, and with broad, sloping roofs as terraces. But to its square terrace block and building is added a long hall, the gable-end of which is adorned with the standard double flame-finial cum hood-antifixes.

Pagoda Dome Shwezigon
Pagoda Dome Shwezigon
Buddha Image
Buddha Image
Abeyadana Temple
Abeyadana Temple
Bagan Balloon Tour
Bagan Balloon Tour

Bagan Pagoda made from thousands of bricks
Bagan Pagoda made from thousands of bricks
Nagayon Temple
Nagayon Temple

The crowning achievement of the Mon temple-builders at Bagan was the great Ananda temple. It is still in use, unlike most of the old temples of Bagan, and so it is kept in repair, painted a blazing white with lime-stucco. It is square in plan, with a long porch-hall added to all of the four doors in the four faces of the square. The brick mass is pierced with a grid of corridors, and the terraced roofs are sloping.

Ananda Temple
Ananda Temple
Ananda Temple Interior Buddha Statue
Ananda Temple Interior Buddha Statue
A colossal standing Buddha figure Ananda Temple
A colossal standing Buddha figure Ananda Temple
Ananda Temple Interior
Ananda Temple InteriorAnanda Temple Interior Wall
Ananda Temple Interior Wall

 

 

A colossal standing Buddha figure – of base, reworked type – faces out from it along each of the approach-halls. Inside the temple is lavishly adorned with relief's of Buddhist subjects

The Ananda Temple towering central spire is perhaps closest of all to the east Indian temple spire, grooved and channeled with multiple moldings, with a vertical band of blind windows up the centre of each face. The broadest terraced roofs have pagodas at each corner. The more central, small roofs have seated lions, standard emblems of the power of the Buddhist doctrine.

The faces of the lower Ananda Temple storey are squared-off by vertical pilasters and a horizontal band.

The edges of all the roofs of the Ananda Temple are crenellated, and each of the magnificent doors is crowned with two huge triangular hood-antifixes of flame-finial. Inside, the spire descends through the roofs to floor-level, as a pagoda-block.

The later evolution of the Bagan temple consisted of modifications of these canonical forms, mainly by the alteration of the relative proportions of the different parts.

The thirteenth-century Gawdawpalin temple adheres to the pattern of the rectilinear temple plus extra plinth. The

Inside the Ananda Temple
Inside the Ananda Temple
Ananda Temple Lady
Ananda Temple Lady
Ananda Temple Yard
Ananda Temple Yard
 

ornament and flame hood-antefixes are much emphasized and enlarged. This – the Myanmar style, as distinct from the Mon – tends to stress the height. of the walls with its highly ornamented pilasters. Porches may be crowned not only with hoods, but even with tiered pinnacles, as in the Sembyoku. One temple at least – the Obelisk of Wet-kyi-in, Ku-byauk-ki – was built as a direct imitation of the square, straight-sided pyramid-tower of the great temple at Bodhgaya, called the Mahabodhi. This had been restored by Anawrahta's successor, Kyanzittha, in the early twelfth century. The Myanmar version has little roundels, each containing a relief figure of a celestial, on each of the many partitions on the faces of the tower.

 
   
 

As time went on, Myanmar brick-and-stucco architecture developed principally through the elaboration and often the coarsening ofits ornament. It is, however, impossible to form an adequate idea of the older styles of temple architecture used, for example, at the sites of the great temples of Rangoon or Mandalay. Bagan's temples were mostly abandoned, so that even though they may be ruined, they show their original characteristics. But temples which have remained in continuous use have been continually and drastically restored. Pagodas may have been sheathed in as many as eight successive casings of brick and stucco. Temple walls and doors are constantly torn down and rebuilt, and stucco may be renewed almost annually. Applying fresh gilding and glass inlay is popularly regarded as an act of merit, so revered architectural monuments suffer from it continually.

Among the more recent pagodas there is only a little variety. In fact they can be built at a great pace and there may be hundreds of many sizes, with many variant patterns of molding, around a Buddhist monastery. The most expensive kind are covered quickly with extravagant and gross stucco ornament, but simpler examples can be beautiful.

Occasional interesting combinations of Buddhism and Naga cult are found in pagodas with an open cell containing an image of the Buddha, the plinth of which is composed of a Naga coiled round the structure . This is possibly an echo of the Khmer Bayon type of Buddha or Naga. Among monastic buildings of wood are many derived partly from Chinese patterns, and then Myanmarized by their ornamental treatment.

There are in the Shan states a number of purely Chinese administrative and monastic buildings. But at the great pagoda sites of southern Myanmar, such as the large Shwemawdaw Pagoda at Bago, the Mingun, Arakan or Maha Muni of Mandalay, there are numerous wooden buildings in which Chinese forms are buried under Myanmar modifications and ornament. At the great Shwedagon at Rangoon, for example, where numerous extremely sacred relics are enshrined, the 'Southern Shrine' is based on the Chinese many-tiered pagoda. The base-storey is cruciform in plan, however, with porch-gables overriding each other, reminiscent of old Bagan, but the wooden pillars that support the porches are Chinese in conception. Yet all the angles of pillar and architrave are filled with pierced wood-panels of scroll and flower ornament, and every roof gable, tier and terrace effloresces with flamboyant pointed cartouches of similar pierced work, so that the whole building is smothered in repetitive ornament, lavishly gilded.

Similar structures, or long halls with double- or triple-tiered gabled roofs at other pagoda sites, where less merit-money has been spent,-have less ornament, and may be extremely beautiful, with only a few flamboyant antefixes pointing the gables and punctuating the eaves. Such buildings abound all over Myanmar. They have never been listed, surveyed or studied. In the Shan states, at the town of Kengtung, for example, beautiful examples of rustic wooden monastery architecture may be seen, where the entire effect is achieved by a multiplicity of plain tiled roofs set into and against each other, or riding over each other in terraced gables. Hardly any paint or gilt mars the simplicity.

Shwemawdaw Pagoda
Shwemawdaw Pagoda

At the present time, financial stringency and a few cases of enlightened patronage have produced wooden architecture, either for monasteries or for official buildings, which succeeds in capturing the virtues of the most chaste monastic architecture. Usually in the past, however, the royal palace, and the palaces of princes and chieftains, have always been disfigured with an incrustation of extravagantly pierced and gilt antefixes, barge-boards, finials and balcony-rails, the design of which is merely monstrous, however rich.

Myanmar figurative art shows the Buddha as a golden or white icon, in a blandly attractive person, unmarked by his asceticism or suffering; the image is meant to show his spiritual not his physical nature. Buddha images, which can be miniature or colossal, are generalized. It is part of their function to display absence of 'personality' and individualism, and they are thus monotonous.

It has been described how Buddhists believe that all Buddha images, if they are to have any effective virtue or magical power, must be careful copies of the earliest images. Buddha images in Myanmar, which is a conservative Theravada country, are therefore made according to a systematic proportional scheme which the craftsmen have handed down for centuries. At the same time it is believed that to make, or to pay for the making of a new Buddha image is a virtuous act, helping the donor on the way to enlightenment by creating merit for him. Thus there has always been an incentive in Myanmar, as in Siam, for people to multiply identical Buddha images in all sorts of materials, not because they were needed, but because it was a good thing to do for its own sake.

At its lowest, this belief has led people to go to temples and spend an hour or two stamping out clay Buddha's with a metal stamp. This custom was no less prevalent in Myanmar than in Siam, and temples often have rooms containing thousands of this kind of Buddha.


Buddha image

There are only three principal iconic positions in which the Buddha appears in Myanmar art. The first is in the 'earth-touching' attitude. The Buddha sits cross-legged, his body upright, his left hand is laid palm up in his lap, his right hand stretched forward over his right knee so that the tips of the fingers touch the ground. This refers to the moment of the Buddha's enlightenment, when he called the earth itself to witness that he was entitled, by the virtue he had accumulated over the ages, to the supreme insight. The second shows the Buddha standing with his right hand raised in the gesture of protection, his left held down, palm out, giving blessings. The third principal icon of the Buddha represents him lying on his right side, his cheek resting on his right hand, in the act of dying into Nirvana.

The rest of the Buddhist representational iconography of Myanmar is based mainly on stories dealing with the life of the Buddha, and with his lives in earlier incarnations. Characteristically, these stories are all represented as relief's or paintings in an abbreviated form, containing only the principal figures, and without any expressive or dramatic interest at all. They serve only as schematic reminders of stories that everyone knows, and do not have to tell the story. Sometimes the representations contain figures of the celestials, who are often mentioned in Buddhist texts as listening to the Buddha's sermons, or attending him. Myanmar art always represents them as delicate, elegant creatures, garlanded with scarves. Certainly these Indian celestials were conceived by the Myanmar in the image of their Nats.

Figurative sculpture as represented in the colossal Buddha images enshrined in the temples of Myanmar or Burma, has never been a highly successful art form in Myanmar. The oldest images at Bagan were often built of brick and finished in stucco. Many huge modern images are made in the same way. The technique is not a flexible one, and the Myanmar had no particular incentive to develop expression in the figures. They remain faithful and monotonous centerpieces for the devotions of the Buddhist faithful. They were heavily and repeatedly gilded, since paying for the application of gilding to an image was always held to be a meritorious act. This sort of pious gilding always obscured the aesthetic qualities of an image. Along the borders of the robe an inlay of precious or semi-precious stones was often set, again as a testimony to the piety of a donor. Just as it is impossible to study the evolution of the architecture of living temples, so it is not possible to compose a stylistic sequence for large Myanmar images which have been continuously reworked. No research has been done in the field, and it is not likely that there would be much concrete result if it were.

In the case of smaller images, of bronze, stone or wood in Myanmar or Burma, dating is also difficult; there is no means as yet of distinguishing the work of different localities and of different times, and no inscriptions with dates are available. The most that can be done is to offer a tentative identification of certain images with an older, up-country provenance. It is possible that they contain vestiges of Pyu style, and certainly some overtones of Chinese form. They tend to be mounted on high lotus plinths, and to wear modeled crowns whose panels are very tall and pointed, as are the tall flame-like protuberances of the skull. From the shoulders there often rise high flanges, fretted and flamboyant. The modeling of the body and face is restrained, but it has more of the old sense of Indian volume to the limbs than the orthodox Myanmar type of Buddha.

There are traces of Khmer-Thai style in many Myanmar images because after the Mongols broke Myanmar power in 1287, these neighbors of the Myanmar took over much erstwhile Myanmar territory, and maintained continuous contact with the sources of Theravada Buddhism in Ceylon through Lower Myanmar. The orthodox Myanmar Buddha image is thus characterized by a bland horizontal emphasis in the features of the mask; but the forms of the body are suppressed into indeterminate volumes beneath the tent-like forms of the robe. The robe's pleats follow a simple, fan-like pattern; and end-folds appear sometimes developed into a fish-tail pattern. Extremely undemonstrative reticence, and no attempt at the expression of qualities, mark the hundreds of orthodox Buddhas in bronze, wood and white marble.

In a few of the temples of Bagan Myanmar there survive relief sculptures in painted terracotta and frescoes that give some idea of tEe original splendor of the buildings. The style is markedly eastern Indian, very close indeed to Pala art in Biher and Bengal. Relief from the Ananda temple confine themselves to a few clearly silhouetted figures and objects disposed on the ground, scarcely developed sculpturally beyond their mere outlines. The most interesting work, however, is the brilliantly colored fresco-painting in, for example, the Abeyadana an id the Wet-kyi-in, Ky-byauk-kyi. Frescoes in the Abeyadana represent a whole Tantric series of divine principles ranged above each other on arcades. There are flying celestials in the fine slim-bodied sinuous style which provided the unvarying; basis for the whole later art of Myanmar. And here and there individual figures testify to a quality of invention that is no whit inferior to the Indian prototypes. Indeed it is possible that Indian Buddhist painters, at first willing immigrants, but later those expelled from their own country by the Moslem holocaust, actually painted some of the walls at Bagan.

The course followed by the later evolution of Myanmar styles of relief and painting was always governed by a tendency towards schematic simplification. There is in Theravada Buddhism a strong streak of puritanism towards the arts. Artistic expression is regarded as an indulgence flattering to the senses. It can only be tolerated if it is purged of all reference to actuality and converted into a kind of mnemonic diagram. Bright simple colors – red, yellow, green and gold – and generalized floral decoration are admitted only because they attract the simple mind, and give it an impetus towards the truth contained in the legend. The idea of developing a visual language for expressing Buddhist ideas, and exploring its resources as was done in Mahayana countries was absolutely excluded in Myanmar.

The later sculptures of auxiliary figures from Buddhist mythology occasionally, makes a more substantial attempt at aesthetic expression. For example, there are figures representing Buddhist saints who are supposed to be listening to the sermons of the Buddha, sometimes placed in a reverent attitude before the main image in a shrine or hall. Most commonly they are of wood, gilded, and with stone or glass inlaid ornament along the borders of their robes. Their figures, features and shaven heads are far more typical of the Myanmar people than the stereotyped Buddha images, and there is some correspondence with visual actuality. Their expression is bland, elegant and sweet, with all emotion exiled. But the forms of which they are composed are usually hesitant, undifferentiated, and made without any conceptual firmness or certainty.

The teakwood figures of the Nats in Myanmar or Burma, mentioned earlier, of which there is a set of copies in Oxford, belong to the same order of art as the temple furniture. They are carved in the same manner and technique. Many of the wooden halls contain brackets or panels carved with elegant figures representing the inhabitants of the heavens. Their attitudes and ornaments are based on those of the palace dancers. They wear the usual insignia of immortals – upward-pointed epaulettes, and tall, pagoda-like pointed hats, often adorned with flamboyant cartouches. The Nats are carved more or less in the full-round, without the tension of form that is produced by the more demanding sculptural modes evolved in other countries of Southeast Asia. Some ride on their canonical animal vehicles, elephants or horses, and they hold weapons or make characteristic gestures by means of which they can be identified.

One of the most important types of Myanmar temple and monastery furniture, examples of which are found in some Western museums, are large, gilded sutra-chests, ornamented with relief in gesso. Such chests were used to store the manuscripts of the sacred Buddhist texts possessed by every monastery. Since these texts contained, as it were, the essence of Buddhism, the spiritual life-blood of the monastery, the chests in which they were kept had to be worthy receptacles, and they shared something of the reverence accorded the texts. The gilt and ornament are the visible evidence of this reverence. The chests stood backed against the walls in the library halls, and were subsidiary foci of the decorative scheme.

Their ornament is in very flat relief - true two-plane relief and for this very reason - the strictness of the limitations of the medium - much of this relief ornament is the most aesthetically satisfying work produced by the Myanmar sculptor. The top of the chest is usually plain gilt, and the back, which is not normally seen, is the same. The chest may be supported on a gilt molded stand, perhaps with feet. Old chests were often given new stands, as it seems that their old stands often decayed, or suffered damage. The front face of the chest bears stylized representations of scenes from the life of the Buddha. Large areas of mirror may be set into the gesso to represent a lake, or the body of an ornamental chariot. The figures are few in number, laid out schematically over the surface; they tend to follow the horizontal and vertical directions, thus giving an air of repose and calm to the design. The side faces usually show figures of celestials bearing their 'insignia', in ornamental frames.

Another kind of temple furniture in which the Myanmar excelled was lacquer ware. Today domestic rice bowls, either for use at home, or, more elaborate, for sale abroad, are made by stiffening a basis of fiber - often hair - with clay and lacquer-juice. They may have gilt figures or ornament on a ground of black lacquer. But the more elaborate temple 'lacquers' may be very large indeed, often compounded of as many as twenty separately formed pieces. Usually they are of red lacquer, and most have black figures and

 
 

 

 
       
Myanmar Girl at Bagan
Myanmar Girl at Bagan
Myanmar People
Myanmar People
Myanmar Girls Bagan
Myanmar Girls Bagan
 

somewhat stereotyped 'rococo scroll-like ornament. The chief items are ceremonial 'alms bowls', meant initially to receive offerings of food from the faithful for the support of the monks. But later on, of course, the kind of alms deposited in these ornate bowls and thus sanctified was no longer in the form of food, but substantial wealth. Generally speaking, the forms of the bowls and related boxes are simple, with plain cylindrical or basin-shaped bodies. At the foot and lip, however, there is usually raised ornament in the form of molded flanges. Often a highly ornate base-stand and lid are added, both with elaborate tiers of molded flanges.Both these may be assembled out of separate pieces which fit into one another. The lid usually towers up into an elaborate conical finial resembling the pinnacle of a pagoda, once more recalling the Buddhist purpose inspiring the gift of the alms - ultimate Nirvana through the merit accumulated
from 'giving'.

 

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