Mrauk U

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Mrauk U


Myanmar travel, Mrauk U, Mrauk U, Myohaung, Myanmar, Mrauk U,
Shite-thaung Temple , temple, Htukkant Thein, Myanmar tour, Mrauk U hotels.


To reach Mrauk U needs a 60 km slow float on the Kaledan River from the seashores of Sittwe.

Using one of the river vessels its a 6-7 hour trip from the Kaledan River Port at Sittwe to Mrauk U.

Probably the best information on Mrauk U was in the book from S. Manrique a Portuguese monk of the Augustinian Order. He went from India to Arakan or today Rakhine in 1630 and lived there for about five years. Arakan or Rakhine at that time in the area of present day Mrauk U was an independent Kingdom. Manrique has left a long and detailed account of his travels, its available as a soft cover pocket book today, we have put some parts of the book below:

Today Mrauk U is a prime tourist destination in Myanmar but not many people know this. Until a few years ago it was difficult for any travel because there was only one serious Mrauk U hotel, but this has changed. Know several good hotels supply the right accommodations for the traveler who want to explore this magnificent place not far away from the Bangladeshi border. 

Travel to Mrauk U is a way to explore Myanmar or Burma on a great tour. See ancient pagoda and temples, have a good time and see the real Myanmar, not the country the western media try to trash all the time. Myanmar is different as it is shown in the European and US media.

In 1571 Mrauk U and the kingdom was in a state of chaos.

High officials played intrigues against King Mong Phaloung and tried to overthrow him.. On the advice of his astrologers the king to build a temple

 (Htukkant Thein) with the help of the plotters as well as governors, land-lords and common people.

They acted according to a saying common at that time, “when the city is worn out, support its ceiling.” The temple was built on a 70 metre by 80 metre platform.

The structure was built of stone blocks with brick pagodas on top of the hall and on the four corners. Inside the temple there are two pavements with many images and carvings picturing the various donors.

A very interesting collection of different costumes and ornaments can also be viewed,

plus sixty four varieties of coiffure, forty different head-dresses, twenty different bracelets, eighty-one rings, sixteen types of pendant and various other body decorations are a creative showcase.

The Shite-thaung Temple, also called the Temple of Eighty Thousand Images, was erected in 1536. The building was funded by a donation from King Mong Ba Gree to commemorate the victory over the twelve provinces of Bengal and the Portuguese marauders who came to assault the capital.The basic structure is a hall topped by a main stupa surrounded by 26 smaller stupas. The temple is 53 metres long, 41 meters wide and 29 meters high Mrauk-U 's golden Myanmar goes further into the past as the date mentioned above. Mrauk U was founded by a King with the name Mong Saw Mon in about 1430, 48 kings followed over for 350 years.


Shite-thaung Temple (right) and
Htukkant Thein Temple (left) Rakhine Mrauk U Myanmar, costumes, Myohaung, Myanmar, Burma, Temple of
Eighty Thousand Images, Myanmar, Burma.

The scenery of today is real beautiful, green hills change with valleys in a marvelous surrounding. It would be a very peaceful and pleasant environment but in the last few years a tsunami of Bangladeshi came over the Mrauk U area plus the area down to Sittwe and around.

The Bangladeshi flee from the continuous natural disaster since they simply produce to many kids and run into a overpopulation, passing even India and China. Somehow it looks, similar to Europe, wher Muslim try slowly to outnumber the local population to take over afterwards, according to official British statistics Britain will have a Muslim majority in about 2040 and the other European countries will follow.

simply by reproduction numbers over time to reach the majority and take over the state in the long run.

A scenic landscape with pagodas around is typical of the Mrauk U area.

The hills and valleys are dotted with dozens of pagodas, temples and lakes. Rising approximately forty meters from the dark ground, this exceptional pagoda was built under the supervision of King Thirithudhamma Raza in 1629 as an ordination hall.


Shite-thaung Temple Inside
Shite-thaung Temple Buddha Statues
Shite-thaung Temple of Eighty Thousand Buddha Images

The pagoda and the structures around are made from solid stone. Two hundred meters away, a small lake with a emerald colored surface within lush green vegetation creates a dream-like picture.

There are several passage ways with galleries throughout the inner temple. The temple is richly decorated with statues of  Buddha as well as images of the animals or persons which Gautama Buddha occupied in his 550 previous lives. People in native costumes with faded colors are shown wrestling, boxing and dancing.

A few kyats for the person sitting at the left behind the main entrance brings a half hour of electricity for the lamps. A Rich

cultural and traditional heritage mixed up with Portuguese, Indian and Arab influence came down to present day Rakhine or it was known before as Arakan.

The heydays of Mrauk U were in the 16th and 17th centuries, contemporary to the days of the Tudor Kings of England, the Moguls and the Ayutthaya Kings of Thailand.

At that time Mrauk U was fortified with 30 km long fortification walls and moats.

One of the main differences to most places in Myanmar or Burma is, many pagodas and temples of Mrauk U are built from 

On the Kaledan River between Sittwe and Mrauk U
On the Kaledan River between Sittwe and Mrauk U
Mrauk U Htukkant Thein Temple Rakhine Myanmar, Images animals, native costumes, wrestling, boxing, dancing, beautiful landscape, Sakyamanaung pagoda, ordination hall.

stone, elsewhere they are made from bricks.

The temple construction followed the Kunhaung architecture, that means smaller pagodas have built at the corners of the lower basement of the temples.

In general this Buddha Temple reminds to the Borobodur Temple in Indonesia. 

 

One of the absolute highlights of Mrauk U is the Sakyamanaung Pagoda situated a half mile north-east of the palace-site. To the south is the Ratanamanaung Pagoda.

The Sakyamanaung pagoda at Mrauk U was built in 1629 A.D by the King Thirithudhammaraza who reigned in Mrauk-U in the years between 1622 and 1638 A.D. The plan and material of the base of the pagoda is peculiar. The base consists of eight braces joined to form an octagon. From the first tier upward the structure of this Mrauk U pagoda is octagonal. After the ninth tier the shape of the spire becomes circular and continues to be so up to the top.

Mrauk U Sakyamanaung Pagoda made in Stone Construction

On each side of the second and third tier of this Mrauk U pagoda is a niche containing a image of a sitting Buddha.
The facade contains ornamental designs similar to those found at other pagodas. The circumference of the pagoda at the base is about 100 meters and the whole structure is a solid stone work. The pagoda is still in good conditions. It is about 40 meters high. The stone wall has openings at the east and west side. The western gate of the pagoda is guarded by two giants in kneeling posture. Twelve turrets were built in the platform which surrounded the pagoda.

Sittwe Kaledan river port ships bound for Mrauk U
Sittwe Kaledan river port ships bound for Mrauk U
Kaledan River Delta at Sittwe
Kaledan River Delta at Sittwe
Kaledan River between Sittwe and Mrauk U
Kaledan River between Sittwe and Mrauk U
Monks visiting a monastery near Mrauk U
Monks visiting a monastery near Mrauk U
In ancient times Mrauk U had a tradition of producing coins

for trading, the Vesali kings started minting coins around the fifth century. Inscriptions on the coins show the title of the ruling king and his year of coronation.

Coins before 1640 had Arakan inscriptions on one side and Persian and Nagari inscriptions on the other. The inclusion of  foreign inscriptions that ment more easy acceptance by Indian and Arab traders. About twenty types of silver coins and three types of gold coins have been found until now. It was the privilege of the kings to issued coins.

Mrauk-U, the last royal capital of Rakhine or former Arakan in the north west part of Myanmar is a scenic and exotic beauty with great historical remains and panoramas. Plenty of pagodas and temples of different areas can be founding this Mart of Myanmar. The pagodas are sometimes quite different in style compared to Bagan, the famous padoda city in central Myanmar or Burma.

No wonder that Mrauk-U is also known as the  'State of Pagodas' and the Portuguese who where one of the first colonist on the shores of Arakan gave Mrauk-U the name as 'The golden City'.

Mrauk-U was founded in 1430 and became the capital of then Arakan. Mrauk U flourished over 355 years untill 1785. Before Mrauk-U, there were several other royal cities, Dhanyawaddy, Vesali, Sambawet, Pyinsa, Parein, Launggret , Hkirt.

Geographically, Mrauk-U lies at the head of a tributary to the Kaladan River, about 45 miles from the Bay of Bengal coast. Sea going ships were able to reach Mrauk U via a network of waterways.

The position near the shores of the Bay of Bengal resulted in commercial and cultural development over the centuries.

Mr. Schouten, a Dutchman who visited the Mrauk U area in the 16th century mentioned that the city of Mrauk U was comparable in size and wealth to Amsterdam and London. He also mentioned that it was the richest city among the ports of Asia he had visited.

The wealth of the people of Mrauk-U depended mainly on extensive rice farming. The crops never failed because plenty of rain all over the year. Trading goods were allowed to import duty-free in order to encourage trade.

Thus Myohaung as Mrauk U was also known  had a large number of foreign merchants from the neighboring countries and

western countries as well, such as the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain and later England. During British colonial times Mrauk U was a strategic important city for the British East India Company vessels which sailed from the west coast of Asia, mainly
Penang Georgetown to British India also Phuket Thailand was frequented.An important export item from Mrauk U to India were elephants. At that time a elephant had cost 1300 silver coins. Portuguese and the Dutch were permitted to build a factory at Aungdat port in Mrauk-U.

Ships on their voyage to Penang, Melacca or the former Malacca and Java or any city on the west coast always did this along the coast means trading vessels naturally call at Mrauk-U to replenish food, water and other. At the beginning of the 16th century the sea oriented Arakan or present day Rakhine was even more visible. King Minbin (1531-1553) built a large naval fleet with modern cannon to guard the long coastal territory of about one thousand miles.

Mrauk-U was a heavy fortified city, the city walls have been integrated into the hills to get a somehow natural wall around the city. At strategic points artillery was positioned. A array of lakes and moats were also constructed inside and outside the city walls to improve the fortification. These moats didn’t function as water supply, the idea was only to further improve the defense of Mrauk U. A traveler today still can see the city walls, moats, watch towers, pagodas, temples, forts plus a lot of archaeological remains still in good conditions.

Some Japanese samurai came to Mrauk-U in 1623 to serve as bodyguards for the kings as domestic guards of Mrauk-U kings. Because of cleverness of the Kings and an efficient administration the kingdom was in good shape at that time.

The kingdom of Arakan in today’s Myanmar Rakhine state was divided into twelve provinces each had a governor who was responsible to the king.

 


From the book of S. Manrique :

.....that Royal City of Mrauk U, which gives to the Kingdom the name of Arakan, the Metropolis of the other kingdoms subject to its crown, as we shall say in its own place. This great city is built in a beautiful valley, about fifteen leagues in circuit, and entirely surrounded by high rough hills, walls of nature's make, and dispensing with artificial ones. On the inside, these hills have been leveled in necessary parts with rammers, and where they have been cut through from top to bottom, gates have been erected for going in and out, whilst above them are some bulwarks provided with artillery, so that the city Would naturally be impregnable, as if it belonged to another more warlike nation.
Through the middle of the city runs a large and copious river, which branching off through various parts, makes the greater number of its streets navigable for different kinds of craft, big and small, the vehicular service public and private, depending mostly on these. These boats bring for sale along the aquatic streets all kinds of foodstuffs and provisions, rice country-wine, meat, fish (fresh, salted and dried), butter, vegetables, fruit, and other food; also, sundry commodities and household utensils; and all these things, the eatables chiefly, are very cheap. Besides this convenience for traffic, there also many squares (places), called Bazaars, where the same articles are on sale.

The river, a few hours down of Mrauk U at present day Sittwe, enters the sea in two places first, at the harbor of Orialan; and secondly, on the side of the Dobazi, where live merchants of different nations, the greater number Maumetans, their captain also belonging to that sect. At the high tide the sea enters the town with great violence by seven gates and at the low tide runs off with equal force. The violence of the sea is greater or smaller according to the rise of the water at the full moons; and then it is very interesting to watch the small boats, going in and out of the gates, for the water is so violent that the least carelessness of the part of the pilots makes the boats heel over, but the only damage to those inside is that they get a ducking, and lose those of their goods that are badly covered and secured.

The greater number of the houses in the city of Mrauk U are made of bamboos, which, as I have said, are strong canes, some of them being very thick. These houses of reed are covered with plaited palm-leaves, called Olas. These houses are made according to the means and position of those who get them made, for much labor and ingenuity is spent on the curious designs of fine variegated mats, very neat and beautiful things. And they manage all that without any kind of nailing, for, instead of nails, they use strong better ligatures, or Bengala canes, as we call them in Portugal; while they are still tender and thin, they work them with some iron instruments, called Daos, and make them as thin and slender as they live. With these ligaments of reed they bind the pieces of the structure in such a way that, if the supports and pillars are of wood, it lasts twelve or fifteen years. Some princes and lords have also in their palaces some rooms made of wood, the different sculptures and moldings of the wood-work being gilt and painted in various colors.

The Royal palaces of Mrauk U are also constructed with the same materials; and they have massive wooden columns of such extraordinary length and straightness that one wonders there are trees so tall and so straight. The inside columns are entirely gilt, without any admixture of other materials. These places contain also some rooms made of odoriferous woods, such as white and red sandal-wood, wild or forest eagle-wood, so that in those apartments the sense of smell has its special delight, in the natural fragrance of those scented woods.

In the same Mrauk U palace there is a hall gilt from top to bottom, which they call the "golden House", because it has a vine of the purest gold which occupies the whole roof of the hall, with a hundred combalengas of the same pure gold. These combalengas are in breadth and shaped like big pumpkins of the kind we call Guinea pumpkins, and they- say that each one of them weights ten bissas, or forty pounds Spanish. There are also in that very rich house seven idols of gold, each of the size and proportions of an average man; they are hollow within, but two inches thick. I could not ascertain the weight of each of these idols, on account of the various estimates given by those whom I questioned. Those idols are adorned on the forehead, breast, arms and waist with many fine precious stones, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, as also with some brilliant old Rock diamonds, of more than ordinary size. In the same golden hall stood eight pitchers of gold each four palms high, seven-inch circumference, and one inch thick. There were also nine dishes of the same metal, each three palms high thirteen inches in circumference, and one inch thick.

This grand and very rich hall of Mrauk U contain still those equally ancient and most celebrated precious Chanequas of the Tangu, the prime cause, past, and present, of so many wars and so much bloodshed on the part of various nations, such as the Siames, the Pegus, Tangus, Bramas, A was, Sions and now at present the Mogos and Mogars. This unique treasure is contained in a casket of gold, two palms long and proportionately broad, the whole of it is covered with very artistic and boughs, flowers and birds, and within this tracery are encased very fine diamonds, rubies and pearls of extraordinary greatness. This admirable casket stands in the centre of the hall on a square table of gold, three palms long; this table too is elaborately engraved, and set with many rich gems. To stimulate the more human cupidity, it is covered with a cloth of white satin, entirely embroidered with gold and pearls of ordinary size. I freely confess that, albeit I had seen in other parts of the East many things of great price and value, yet, when they opened the casket for me, and I beheld the chanequas, I stood amazed, especially on seeing that I could scarcely fix my eyes on them, due to the splendor they cast. These Chanequas are two rubies shaped like an obelisk and pyramid, of the length of the small finger, and the bottom of each has the circumference of a small hen's egg. These most precious jewels are used only at the coronation of the Mogo Kings, or in their greatest solemnities. The word chancqua means the same as a pendant, or ear-ring, an article worn at the ears both by the Mogos, and the Pegus and Bramas; for this purpose, they pierce their ears when young, and put in them something heavy, which keeps stretching and enlarging them until they reach almost the shoulders.

In one of the inner courts of the Mrauk U palace there is also a statue of the King Braka, Tyrant of the Empire of Pegu, who was slain by a Pegu lord called Xemi' Decatam, whom he had ordered to be killed. While quartering at a small country-house some uses belonging to a Verela, or temple, with four thousand Bramas, this Brama King was waiting for the rest of his army, which he had ordered to collect, with the intention of marching against a prince who had revolted in Martaban  - or  Mottama, as it is known today 2009, south of Yangon.

Now, one night, Xemi Decatam with six hundred Pegus fell unexpectedly on him at the houses of the Vaakto. Luck would have it that they found the Tyrant busy in a closet, for he was suffering at the time from a flux of the belly, and they killed him. The Burmans hold him for a Saint, and as such they dedicated a temple to him, because he had so greatly aggrandized and exalted their nation, and, to perpetuate his memory forever, they resolved to make an image of him. So, they made a bronze figure and seated on a table, also of metal and around him are sundry monsters in bronze of surprising size. The most wonderful are four giants of both sex, each sixteen palms high and holding maces in their hands: a monstrous brood. With them there is another monster of the same material, half elephant, half bull, eleven palms high, another horrid-looking object. Still other animals, also of bronze from port of that cortage; but as they are one of ordinary shape and size. The statues of the four Giants were, they say, adorned with many precious stones, and in the places where they were encased there are still the traces of them. That statue is venerated by many of those Gentiles, who come to see it, and out of devotion anoint it with sandal and fragrant oils. And when people are afflicted with diarrhea, they came to him as to their advocate against that infirmity, bringing vases full of water, they bathe him, and the water which flows out, after passing through his body, is collected and given to drink to those who suffer from the illness.

At a small distance from that Mrauk U Royal Palace, there is a lake, the water of which is dammed off, and they say it is more than thirty leagues long. The lake is divided into several arms, containing many islets, quite cool, and planted with fruit-bearing trees. The greater number of these islets (island) are inhabited by Raulins. Some of these live in Varelas, some of their Varlas being built like our Convents. Others live in private houses. I shall give a special account of them all, when I describe the warship of those nations. On that big lake there are many boats, but they do not communicate with the interior of the city, as the passage is dammed up.

Their ancient histories of Mrauk U say that this lake was opened and begun when that Kingdom seperated and made itself independent from the Empire of Pegu, the purpose of it being this. In case they should be besieged, they would retire to the suburbs contiguous to the Lake, and, as a last resource, let the waters escape, and the violence of the onrush would be such that they would
inundate the city and at the same time destroy the enemy. It is for this reason that they still keep these waters.

To go back to the thread of our golden Myanmar, I say that the city of Mrauk U in Arakan must have, according to the common estimate, one hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, exclusive of the foreign merchants, who are very numerous, as the place is a very important roadstead for vessels coming there from Bengala, Mussulapantan, Tanaussarim, Martaban, Achem, and Jakarta: there are, besides, other foreigners, both merchants and soldiers who are fixed there and in the King's pay, as I have said: these are Portuguese, Pegus, Bramas, and Mogos. In addition to these there are also many Christians, Japons, Bengalas, and of other nations.

The Kingdom of Arakan is bordered on the south by the Kingdom of Pegu from which it is divided by mountains, on the other side, it borders on the Kingdom of Bengal through the Kingdom of Chatigan, the coast-line runs up to the Kingdom of Chudube, and Cape Negrais. The whole of that coast is very wild; and, though it has some harbors and islands, yet these are very unsafe, owing to certain winds blowing there, which are dangerous to vessels.

 
     

 

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Mrauk U

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